Dusty Passports

The dusty flight to Egypt airport from the green of the Uk was a bit of a shock to the system. The plane bumped around in the sky like a kite caught in an never-ending gust of strong wind. But unlike the kite, the plane unfortunately couldn’t be reeled down and place neatly back in its packaging for another Christmas morning. I held on tightly to the armrest. Everyone in the plane held there breath as we started to descend. Looking out the window in brief glimpses, before praying ‘oh god, do not let this piece of steel fall from the sky today’, I spotted the city of Cairo. The buildings tall. The city was warm. Surrounded by shades of amber, bronze and auburn reflected from the desert. It was as if a small child had drawn a circle in the sand and a city was built within the shape. Anything on the outside did not exist….

I arrived in my hotel and our tourguide started explaining the history of the pyramids. Sandstone upon sandstone. They floated from Luxor, up The Nile to Cairo, dragged from the river and strategically placed one on top of another. Ultimately forming one of the only standing wonders of the ancient world. But honestly looking up at these giant sculptures, how did a single society create this? No ladders? No cranes?

The tour guide was charming, confident and spoke of facts about Egypt, flowing off his tongue like water off a ducks back. The stories swelled around creating a tapestry of stories, legends and historic tales. The air was thick. The words were great. As he spoke, a bucket went around the table. We were to place our passports in it for the hotel to record a copy. Without thinking, each of the tour group members handed over the most important possession we had. The stories swelled. They stories grew. We were told the tale of Karnak temple. Its ancient name was ‘Ipet-isut’ meaning ‘The Most Sacred of Places’.

Every word he spoke, drew us in closer around the glass table of the hotel room.

“So imagine we are in the Eleventh Dynasty around 2000 BC (a period also known as Middle Kingdom) in the ancient city of Thebes.  The Old Kingdom has collapsed and Thebes is under the reign of Sesostris I. He began the initial construction of Karnak with small shrines dedicated to the Earth goddess Mut and Montu (the early deities of Thebes). Stories suggest the shrines were destroyed by invaders and the ancient city was deserted until the New Kingdom.”

The hotel door shut. Our passports had been escorted out the room, without even a blink.

The tale continued in a strident voice, “In the Eighteenth Dynasty, the city of Thebes was named as the capital city of Egypt. Construction commenced again resurrecting the great Karnak temple.  Pharaohs including Seti I and Ramesses II contributed to the complex. It was dedicated to the god Amum-Re. In the new Kingdom Amun-Re was regarded so highly the other gods became a symbol of this power”.

“So essentially he the Egyptian equivalent to Zeus?” One of the girls in our group said as we tittered away from the tour guide.

Bang. In an instance I awoke. Clean sheets. It was dark. Smell of artificial flower spray. Fast breathing. My wallet still under my pillow. Squinting, the door was still locked. I checked my phone, 2:17am. I hadn’t over slept. Actually, I didn’t have to be awake for another 3 hours. But there was one thing still lurking in the back of my mind. BANG. Where. Was. My. passport? I laid there. Still. My eyes darting around the room. Panic started to set in. Heart pounding so loud the homeless dog across the road would be able to hear. I ran out the room. Cold tiles on my feet. Banging on the door of my friend. Why won’t she wake. Why wont she wake.

The door opening as a drearyed eyed, scruffy haired girl appeared. In the midst of panic, …… I was calmed……. and sent back into my room. I didn’t sleep.

The next morning I went to the reception. I asked for my passport. She opened the draw with a smile and pulled my passport from an alphabetised stash. A situation  hitting a bit too close to home for comfort. But the passport was safe and sound.